Randall Washington, aka "Randakk"
President and Chief Executive Rider
Chapel Hill, NC USA
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Honda GL1000 Restoration Realities Please read: Disclaimers For my exclusive Master Carb Overhaul Kits and other items...click here Sorry...I'm not accepting additional restoration projects until further notice.If you're visiting my web site, you're likely as crazy about early GL1000s as I am. I humbly submit that this is the best all-around street motorcycle design ever. I am absolutely convinced that (one day) good examples will fetch astronomical prices from eager collectors.This informed opinion carries little weight when considered in the context of the cruel economics of the current market. I don't expect this reality to change any time soon. Many of you would like to have a "perfect" GL1000. A full bore, money-no-object, 100% correct, museum quality restoration could easily top $10,000 plus whatever acquisition cost you had invested in the starting point. At the moment, top-drawer investment grade GL1000s rarely top $7,000 no matter how perfect. It's very easy to get upside down on restoration projects in this kind of market. Since you can buy decent "runners" all day long in the $1,000 - 1,500 range, here's a restoration strategy that I think makes some sense. A complete mechanical rejuvenation combined with a sensible (but not anal) cosmetic refresh costs about $2,500-$4,500 in my shop (this assumes you don't need internal engine repairs). This puts your total investment in the $3,500 - $6,000 range. The finished bike will perform and look fabulous and will be a threat to win show trophies on the local level. At this price point, most of your investment could be recovered if you decided to sell and you have the added benefit of owning a bike you can actually ride and enjoy. True "garage queen" show bikes are often considered too valuable to ride. Compare this level of investment with anything available new and you have a compelling case. I work with each customer to develop a detailed work plan and estimate. Once we agree on what's "in-scope," I use a Change Order process to manage deviations from the plan. Here's what I typically do on a project like this: Mechanical Rejuvenation
Safety Items
Cosmetics
If you've just installed new tires or a battery, these are things we don't need to worry about. The key to this approach is where you spend your money. The best bang for your buck will be spending money that counts for performance, safety and visual appeal. Certain compromises are OK as long as they aren't obvious. Professional paint and graphics will represent nearly $1000 of your budget, but this will have a huge impact on how the project turns out. Examples of what you DON'T get with this strategy (certainly possible, but runs up your investment):
I aim for the closest, reasonable representation of a completely stock bike. Occasionally, I allow slight functional improvements such as stainless steel radiator hose clamps or close substitutes when OEM parts are no longer available. Obviously, if you want something that's non-stock, like a custom seat or unusual color this can be arranged as well. Oddly, the best restoration candidate for this strategy might surprise some of you. I would rather start with a somewhat ratty but complete "runner" as opposed to a better looking "barn fresh" bike that has been sitting for any length of time. A bike that's capable of self-propulsion (and stopping!) generally presents less risk and expense than the unknowns involved with a "sitter" no matter how good it looks. One final point worth mentioning. I work on "naked" bikes only. Aftermarket fairings are an abomination. I know many of you will disagree, but I've yet to see an aftermarket fairing that was installed without butchering the wiring harness. Not to mention the terrible effect on handling, rattles, squeaks, etc.
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