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Carb Cleaning (in situ lazy method)
You
might consider this item: Randakk's
GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video
Note
added August 8, 2007:
I've
just learned that Yamaha has changed the formulation of this product...probably
to make it more "green." Yamaha now says to dilute this
product with water instead of gasoline. Also, the product is now
intended for submersion cleaning only (with the carbs apart).
The old stuff contained 2-Butoxyethanol and Xylene, the new stuff
contains Glycol Ethers and Xylene. More here:
My
feeling is that the product is not nearly as useful as it once
was. But, you may be able to find some of the old formulation
on a dealer's shelf.
The
part number for the old and new formulation is the same. But,
the new formulation is labelled "Carburetor Cleaner Dip."
The good stuff is simply labelled "Carburetor Cleaner."
If
you think your carbs need cleaning, try this first. Yamaha makes
a product aptly called "Carburetor Cleaner"…comes in a large plastic
bottle (not aerosol). I’ve had very good luck resurrecting dirty
carbs WITHOUT disassembly using this product. When it works, this
method saves time, effort and expense. Best of all, you don’t
need new rubber components as you do when the carbs are taken
apart.

Yamaha Carb
Cleaner
In my experience,
this method is much more effective than running "in-fuel"
cleaning products. "In-fuel" cleaners will only help
on very mild carb problems. Chronic overuse of "in-fuel"
cleaners or using them in excessive concentration can damage
internal carb rubber components. This is especially true on
GL1100s - the location of the 4 air cut-off valves and acclerator
pump makes them very vulnerable. They are quite expensive to
replace!
Worse, the excessive
use of "in fuel" cleaners risks loosening up lots
of crud in your fuel tank...another whole can of worms! The
Yamaha product is harmless to carb components (and of course
your fuel tank!) when used as directed.
Yamaha
dealers sell tons of this stuff. If your dealer says he's never
heard of this product, consider finding another dealer then give
him this part number:
#ACC-CARBC-LE-QT
or
#ACC-CARBC-LE-NR
Follow the directions carefully
and PERFORM THIS WORK OUTDOORS DUE TO FUMES AND FIRE HAZARDS.
The product is intended to be diluted with gasoline (1:3 ratio).
First, drain all your carb bowls completely. Remove the fuel line
to the carb plenum at the point where it leaves the fuel pump.
Extend this line if necessary and attach a small funnel. Carefully
and slowly pour the diluted cleaner mixture in through the funnel.
It will take approximately 180cc to fill all 4 bowls. It may be
necessary to gently tap the carb bowls with a plastic mallet to
get the floats to release if they’re stuck in the closed position.
If you’ve added 200cc of mixture and it seems that you could add
more DON"T…you probably have a float stuck in the open position.
Place a fuel line from the fuel
pump to a suitable catch container. Now, with the kill switch
set to "OFF" operate the starter for 5 seconds with throttle wide
open. This will draw some of the mixture into the carb circuits.
After 2 hours, drain the bowls
and refill using fresh gasoline through the funnel. Reconnect
your fuel line and go for a test ride. If you still have carb
problems, the directions say you should repeat as above except
leave the mixture in overnight. I’ve repeated this cycle up to
4 times before finally getting good results. This was on a bike
that sat for 4 years with fuel in the bowls!
Generally, I will augment this
process by removing the idle mixture screws and squirting aerosol
carb cleaner through these circuits. I use a plastic attachment
on the end of the red "straw" that permits a fairly effective
"seal" so that I get pressure to help force the action. Also,
I always make other external checks to make sure the choke shafts
are free and that I have no sticking throttle slides.
Important:
the Yamaha "Carburetor Cleaner" is intended for use
in carbs only per the instructions on the bottle. Never add this
product to the fuel in your fuel tank! It you do, you may regret
it very much as it can loosen all manner of crud which will quickly
clog your main fuel filter and float valve inlet screens.
If you use this product and determine
that you still have carb issues which require disassembly, you’re
still ahead as your carbs will require much less work to clean
once they’re apart.
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