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Secret
Ignition Tuning Tip Revealed
If
you've read deep into this web site, you know by now that I'm
"old school" on the subject of GL1000 ignitions. I happen to like
old-fashioned breaker points. There are real performance advantages
with electronic ignition conversions (like Dyna/s). I run one
on RC-003. But, I field lots of questions from individuals attempting
to solve various problems with aftermarket electronic ignitions
systems on GL1000s. Often the problem is shoddy wiring of the
switched 12V feed which powers these units. Fuses (when used!)
sometimes blow without explanation. Sometimes, the "black box"
circuitry inside these marvelous devices simply goes "poof." Electronic
ignitions never fail on your driveway. You're usually at least
50 miles from home and the nearest motel!
Here's
my consistent advice on this subject: Breaker points ignitions
are stone simple, ultra reliable and easy to troubleshoot and
fix when traveling. Ude elctronic ignitios with the understanding
that they may strand you if all of the magic smoke
escapes!
Properly
adjusted new points will need a slight "touch-up" adjustment of
the gaps once the rubbing blocks are bedded in...after about 500
miles or so. Thereafter, they are good for 3000 miles between
cleaning and adjusting. The need for the initial touchup adjustment
makes some people erroneously think that the points setup needs
constant fiddling. This is simply not true in my experience.
Also,
be sure you use ONLY OEM Points. Aftermarket points are highly
variable in the quality of materials used. The material used for
the contact points themselves is very critical. OEM points use
superior material for the contact points. Some aftermarket points
are highly susceptible to arcing and metal transfer which quickly
ruins their efficiency. The rubbing blocks on aftermarket points
also seem to wear faster than OEM which means they fall out of
adjustment much faster.
I'm
now going to reveal the fourth best performance tip I know of
for a GL1000 (best tip #1 is the "off-idle fix." The 2nd and 3rd
best tips are proprietary.
I
thought I was about the only wrench who knew about this, but Mike
Nixon (a notorious Honda wizard) mentioned to me recently that
he knew about this as well...
It's
actually a very simple idea. To improve performance over the stock
points setup, use the Honda OEM points made for the CB450 (Black
Bomber) model. These points have an extra ground strap which is
a definite improvement:
"On
GL1000s I used CB450 points, a trick I later (when working for
American Honda during the 80s) found out was a factory-recommended
item as well. Unlike the GL points, the 450 points have a separate
copper conducting strap. The result is that the condensers can
do their job better of damping stray arcs." Mike Nixon
Not
only does the extra ground strap provide a more reliable path
to ground, it's oriented in a "siamesed" fashion with the points
spring thereby increasing the effective spring rate. This is very
much like the old hot rodder's trick of "double springing" the
points. This gives added insurance against "points bounce" which
can cause a miss at high rpms.
This
is especially important when you consider that the GL1000 condenser
assembly is located up by the battery box...quite a great distance
from the points. A perfect path to ground is essential for the
GL1000 condensers to do their job from such a remote location.

Stock
GL1000 point assembly (left) and CB450 "Black Bomber"
points (right)
I
now use these Black Bomber points on all machines that pass through
my shop.
Part
numbers for Honda CB450 "Black Bomber" points:
- Left
- #30204-292-003
- Right
- #30203-292-003
Interestingly, aftermarket points for the CB450 don't always have
the extra ground strap. So, to summarize my advice on points -
use OEM GL1000 points only. For best results and a performance
upgrade, use Honda OEM points for the CB450.
Adjusting
your points correctly also requires re-setting the ignition timing.
Whenever you change the point gap settings for any reason, the
ignition timing is necessarily altered as well. More points gap
advances the timing while less points gap retards the timing.
Over time, even properly adjusted points will eventually close
up through wear of the rubbing blocks. This is one of the reasons
why a proper tuneup will restore the "pep" lost when ignition
components need attention.
Be
sure to see the Tech Tip on the "Split
Timing" technique.
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