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More
on Aftermarket Float Valves
You
might consider this item: Randakk's
GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video
As
of this writing, Honda still stocks the OEM float valve sets for
the GL1000.
The
original part number is: 16011-371-004 "VALVE SET, FLOAT"
A
superseded part number is: 16011-371-305 "VALVE SET, FLOAT"
Latest
superseded part number is: 16011-371-014 "VALVE SET, FLOAT"
(There
is no worry about getting the wrong part from Honda. Their system
will always supply the correct superseded part regardless of
what you request.)
If
you don't know the prior history of your carbs, identify the status
of your current float valves. OEM seats have Keihin logo marks
and a "1.0" flow rating mark…otherwise, they are aftermarket
One
nice thing about the OEM float valve set from Honda is that it
also includes the inlet screen, which is not provided with any
aftermarket GL1000 float valves. Despite a rather notorious reputation
for dubious quality, Keyster, K&L NAPCO and other aftermarket
float valves are mostly fine these days I believe. However, it
is critical that any aftermarket float valve that you might use
must have a valve "pin" that measures at least 11.8 mm from rubber
point to un-compressed, spring-loaded tip. This assumes you are
using the aftermarket float pin with a float seat which has the
same vertical aspect dimension as the OEM float seat.
In
the past, problems arose with bad batches of aftermarket float
sets which had valve needles that were too short.
These were either manufacturing errors or packaging mistakes.
In these cases, no matter how high you set the floats, the valves
would never close completely. Flooding was inevitable.
Aftermarket
float seats are also fine so long as they are dimensionally
equivalent to the stock part.
There
is still some risk if you purchase aftermarket float sets that
you will receive merchandise from these prior bad lots.
Just
to be safe, no matter what combination of float seat / float pin
parts you use, you need to make one more check. There should be
nominal clearance between the outer "shoulder" of the float seat
and the pin valve spring "clip" when the rubber tip is resting
on the bottom of the seat with no pressure other than gravity.
The "clip" is the wire retainer that surrounds the float "tang."
Make this check with the carbs upside down on your bench. I don't
actually measure this, I just eyeball to make sure there is some
visual clearance. A bit of clearance is good...no clearance is
very bad!
If
the aftermarket float pin is too short and / or the aftermarket
float valve seat is too thick, the "clip" will bottom on seat
shoulder before the rubber tip can do its job of controlling the
fuel flow. I make this visual check on all carbs I re-do. I've
never found a problem of this nature with OEM parts but you never
know when there might be a packaging mix up or the like.
Even
more problems with aftermarket float valves discussed here.
Warning:
There
are some aftermarket carb kits in the market that insinuate that
they include genuine Honda float valve / seat assemblies. This
disingenuous claim is highly dubious. Unless you receive these
float sets in a sealed Honda package with a Honda part number,
you are not being supplied with genuine Honda merchandise.
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