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Knuckle
Busting 101 - Throttle Cable Detach / Attach
You
might consider this item: Randakk's
GL1000 Carb Rebuild Video
Throttle
cable replacement on GL1000s is a straightforward operation, but
there is a trick I will share which makes it much easier to accomplish. Important: take careful note of throttle cable routing
through the frame, around the steering head and up past the headlight
bucket. Since GL1000s
(like most bikes) were shipped to dealers partially assembled
when new, the dealer was supposed to finish the assembly according
to a detailed “Set-Up Guide.” Unfortunately, the personnel assigned
to this task were often slack or creative in their approach to
this task. I’ve had some arguments with owners of
bikes who would swear that since they bought the bike new and
their throttle cables, brake hoses, etc. came routed a certain
way “from the factory” that they would insist on routing replacement
parts the same way…even when I showed them the correct routing
from the set-up manual. When in doubt, refer to the Factory Shop
Manual or Set-up Guide.
Correct
throttle operation is vital for safe operation.
Also, I’ve had drivability complaints (such as hesitation
or bog) from riders which would normally point to carburetion
or ignition problems which actually were solved by throttle cable
replacement. The action of a clean, well-lubed, non-kinked
throttle set-up should be silky and smooth. Excess resistance results in abrupt action
at the actual throttle butterflies which makes it difficult to
ride smoothly. The throttle should snap closed crisply from full
open to closed under its own spring power when released.
NEVER defeat the engineered-in safety by eliminating the
“push” (return) cable.
Attachment
for both the push and pull cables at the twist grip end is conventional
and intuitively obvious.
Attachment at the carburetor bell crank linkage end is
quite another matter. Easy to see, but hard to get a wrench
in position to use. One
reputable guru actually recommends removing the entire carb assembly
just to remove the throttle cables.
Not only is this unnecessary, it actually buys practically
no additional access and puts undesirable stress and strain on
the cables. Here’s how I do it:
First,
remove the air cleaner assembly from the plenum.
Next, locate the throttle cable with the mid-point adjuster. Loosen the locknut and rotate the barrel
to add max. slack to the outer cable housing. Now the trick…using a 10 mm CROWS-FOOT
wrench on a long extension, loosen the lock nut on the pull
cable where it attaches to the carb assembly (this is the top
cable at the carb). Perform this step from the right (fuel
pump) side of the bike.
With the crows-foot wrench, this is quite easy. If you don’t own a set of crows-foot wrenches,
here’s your excuse. You’ll
be amazed at how handy they can be on occasion.
(Note:
I'm well aware that you can accomplish this task without a crow's
foot wrench by maneuvering a 10 mm wrench though the opening in
the top shelter lid (after the air box is removed). I find my
method much easier. Plus, if you ever need to remove / attach
the "pull" throttle cable for any reason without disturbing
the air box - my method allows this as well.)
The
push cable is easy. Remove
with two 10 mm open-end wrenches from the left (starter) side
of the bike. Stubby wrenches make this a little easier.
Once both cables are free from the carb assembly, you can
remove the cables from the handlebar twist grip assembly as necessary
to the task at hand.
Re-install
in reverse order. Before
you ride, test for binding by twisting the bars lock to lock with
the engine idling. If handlebar movement affects the idle
speed, it is imperative that you investigate and correct before
riding. If you have an aftermarket windshield
or fairing installed be certain that it does not interfere with
throttle operation.
I definitely
recommend stock OEM Honda throttle cables over aftermarket products.
Honda cables are sized precisely for each application.
Other cables fit a range of models. This is especially a problem with the
’75 and ’76 models which have flatter bars than the LTD and later
bikes. Many aftermarket cables are simply too
long for the early bikes.
One
final issue. Could
you execute a “kill switch” shut down if required?
Practice locating this switch while riding and be prepared
in case your throttle ever hangs wide open!
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